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Making Leather Armor
In Crafts and Skills
Apr 22, 2018
Step Six: Leather carving and tooling. This takes a few steps and some practice. First you need to case your leather. By getting it damp you can easier transfer your designs to the leather with a simple scribe. My first few I did with the rounded edge of my beveling tool while waiting for my stylus to show up in the mail. Here I personally do not fully case my leather, I only get it samp enough to slightly soften the top layer. I save doing a ful casing for when I'm ready to do my tooling. Once your image is transferred, you can lightly score your lines with a knife. This works a bit better while it's still a touch damp. Depending on how much you want your edges to stand out, or if you're going to paint the lines with dye, your project may not need this step. When I'm actually ready to tool the design, that is when I then finished casing my leather. I get my best results wetting both sides. But don't fully saturate your leather. If it's too wet, your edges will be soft when you bevel. At least for me, I keep it just barely wet enough to get a little floppy. First I run a beveler around all of my edges. This let's me get a fairly decent impression quickly and see how the leather is behaving, and gives me a good look at the design so I can decide if I want to do any backgrounding. Keeping it at the semi damp casing through all this time still leaves me the option if I want to fully harden it when I'm done tooling by finishing saturating the leather after I'm done carving.
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